Sunday, March 26, 2006

Visiting Kalstejn Castle


Friday was sunny, in the 30s, but sunny. I had been planning to visit a castle outside of the city over the weekend, but the weather forecast predicted rain. (It was correct; it's been rainy for two days now.) So I flipped my plans and took a spur of the moment trip to Karlstejn Castle Friday afternoon. Yesterday and today I have been working on preparation for my classes and my up-coming trips.

A little travelogue:

I walked across Chekov Most bridge near my apartment and caught the #12 tram, which took me to the Smichov train station on the south end of the city. I figured out how to buy a ticket and paid my $2 for the round trip. The picture of the bridge was taken on a less sunny day.

Waiting on the platform for about 20 minutes, I noticed two big differences here that I have failed to mention before. First, most women dye their hair. But not, as at home, to have it be a natural color. Here, hair color is more an accent or a statement, like jewelry or clothes. Fuchsia, orange, indigo, jet black, and streaks that combine these colors are common in women of all ages. It is almost tempting to try it! Second, “public display of affection” is everywhere. Waiting for a metro or a train is time not to be wasted just chatting when you can hug, snuggle, and kiss. My students tell me it is because people here live with their parents forever and public spaces are, in a way, more private than home spaces. There is a definite charm to both PDA and burgundy hair.

The train ride was scenic, but the early part provided only typical track-side scenes of less well maintained neighborhoods. Once away from the city, the tracks run next to the Valtva River and through picturesque little towns. Many people seem to have small cabins or cottages for weekend getaways. These are not rich people places, but places for regular folks where they have a patch of yard and a garden. Almost every one of the cottages has a garden and I assume people grow fresh vegetables as soon as the ground is ready. The best picture I caught out the train window happens to show the three biggest, poshest houses I passed, and they are probably year around homes rather than weekenders. One little town was on the far side of the river and had a foot bridge across it to get to the train station. Nifty.

I arrived at Karlstejn about two hours after leaving home. I followed the signs and the few other visitors from the train station to the town. I passed a dog waiting for someone to come from the train station. The streets are lined with tourist shops. The castle (Hrad) is way above the town.

The walk up was a challenge and the tour of the castle was enjoyable. On the way back down I bought some folk art Easter eggs to bring home. The vendor wrapped them so well that I can’t bring myself to unwrap them to take their picture. The train station and the train were even picturesque. I saw many ducks and a few swans swimming in the river on the way back. I went to dinner with a Fulbright friend when I got back and when I finally walked back over Chekov Most night had fallen and the bridge was beautiful.

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